Overlooking Passo San Pelegrino from somewhere below Col Margherita.

Dolomites, Winter 11/12

Off to Italy again for our biennial holiday in the Dolomites. Thankfully no travel drama this time although high winds in Amsterdam did cause delays and threatened to make us miss the AMS - SEA connection on our return. Fortunately it wasn't anything a panicked sprint through the terminal couldn't fix and best of all, our bags made it as well!

As in years past, Agata and I again had to content ourselves with 10 days riding groomers comprised almost entirely of man-made snow. Suffice to say that we've had our fill of icy slopes and are looking forward to some deep days in 2012. Not that I'm complaining or anything-10 consecutive days out on the slopes regardless of who or what created it certainly beats most alternatives. And like it or not, the fact that the operator managed to get virtually all of the ~750 miles of runs skiable before Christmas, despite mother nature's lack of cooperation is nothing short of astounding.

In any case, we made the most of our situation and explored as much of the 'ski area' as we possibly could this time. We reconnoitered far and wide from a home base in Canazei and where lifts would not take us we drove. Spectacular scenery, perfect weather, abundant slope-side refugios both rustic and modern with excellent food and drink, and of course bulletproof snow - this is your typical ski holiday in the Dolomites (come in February/March for powder). The only difference now is that the Germans have been replaced by Poles, Russians and Czechs…Europe's nouveau riche as it were.

We wrapped up our stay a couple days early and did some sightseeing around nearby Lake Garda (Italy's largest) and Verona before boarding the plane in Venice. As always, it is a privilege to spend the holidays in the Dolomites with family, and once again I find myself scheming on how to go about relocating here. But anyway, about that La Nina…

Mouse-over thumbnails below for a description and click to enlarge.

Cortina's Col Druscie - Ra Valles cable car approaches the (mid)station with the highest of the Tofane Group-Tofana di Mezzo in background.    View from the Bus Tofana chair with walls of Tofana di Mezzo in background (a cable car can be taken to the top in summer).    From top of Tofana's Cacciatori chair with Croda Rossa rising prominently in background.    Overlooking Cortina with Cristallo at left, Sorapis at center and Cinque Torri group at right.    View down a forbidding coulior with Sorapis in background. Way too bony and firm to bother trying, but someday perhaps...

Agata shreds December slush down the 1956 Cortina Winter Olympics downhill!    The antiquated Cortina - Mandres - Faloria cablecar nears the upper station.    A strange place for a chairlift high on Cristallo (bummed it wasn't running).    Panorama overlooking Cortina with Tofana Group at left, Croda Rossa in distance right-of-center and Cristallo at right.    Enjoying the sunset after a fine day exploring the slopes around Cortina.    'Few Snow' at top of Col dei Rossi.

A grand panorama from the Buffaure ski area with Val San Nicolo' below and the town of Pozza at right.  Peaks of the Rosengarten/Catinacco Group are visible at far right.    Riding Sella's updated Sasso Levante chairlift with Sassolungo in background.    Time for homework at Porta Vescovo's swanky new Cesa da Fuoc rifugio    Descending a cat track at Val Gardena's Dantercepies ski area with Col Rodella, Passo Sella and Sassolungo in background.    Waiting for the gondola at Pecol (Belvedere ski area) as the setting sun paints Pordoi in a firey orange hue.    The impressive Pala di San Martino Group as seen from the Alpe Lusia ski area.

View over Val di Fassa with peaks of Rosengarten/Catinacco Group in background (from Lusia).    Panorama from slopes above town of Falcade with Pala di San Martino Group at center.    Time for some Forst VIP after a day of riding at Passo San Pelegrino.    A lifetime's supply of nitrates!    View from the balcony - finally some new snow the day we have to leave. Go figure...

Overlooking the mighty Adige River Valley with town of Bolzano visible at far right. Peaks of Austria's Texelgruppe Nature Park and the Stubai Alps (maybe Sonklarspitze & Wilder Freiger) in distance left-to-right.    Looking into the sun from town of Nago-Torbole with Lake Garda beyond (Italy's largest).    Admiring the view with my mom with peaks of the Adamello Group visible in distance left-of-center.    Looking down Lake Garda from town of Malcesine.    Mom and dad soak in the last rays of sunshine at Malcesine.

Birds perched on crenellations at a castle in the Lake Garda town of Sirmione.  This locality has been famous for its spa complex since Roman times.    Fossilized nautilus shells abound in the limestone used in both ancient as well as new construction around these parts.    A Garda morning with Monte Baldo (ski area) in distance at far left.    Looking up Garda from tip of the Sirmione spit.    O Romeo, Romeo! wherefore art thou Romeo?    Always 'Wonderful Times' despite our multi-year curse of lousy snow coverage during the Christmas holidays!

Winter 09/10 report here.
Winter 07/08 report here.
Photo album here.

Videos:
Dolomites (Return To), Winter 03/04 (video - 17.8MB/9.32min)
Dolomites "Fuori Pista", Winter 05/06 (video - 42.6MB/11.46min)


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